MANALI & More - 1956

Manali in Himachal Pradesh is now a very popular destination. Around 1956 we set out to go there all prepared with maps.

From Delhi, we reached Chandigad and stayed there for a couple of days – a new city established to serve as the capital for both Haryana and Punjab. Famous French architect La Corbusier designed it. It was divided into sectors. We also visited the India's first big dam, Bhakra Nangal Dam a concrete gravity dam on the Satluj River in Bhakra Village in Bilaspur district, Himachal Pradesh in northern India.

From here we were to drive to Manali. In Chandigarh, we were told that after the construction of the famous Bhakhra and Nangal dams the road we had charted out was closed. This led to an overnight journey via Mandi to Manali. On the way close to Chandigarh there is Pinjore garden developed in the 17th century in Mugal style as a summer retreat for Aurangzeb. The Patiala Dynasty Sikh rulers have now renovated it. We stayed one night in Mandi. We visited a local rock garden developed by collector who was interested in gardening.

Next day we reached Manali. We had made a booking to stay at the government guesthouse for 3 nights. Due to early snowfall, we could barely go around. The most important outing to go to Rhatang Pass was impossible. Nearby John Bannon’s hotel was fully occupied by European tourists. This was our first experience of seeing snow all over the ground. There was no electrical heating, so at night our driver brought a big chunk of wood and put it in fire. It slowly burnt and kept us warm through the night.

Our second room was not available because there were guests who were forced to overstay because of snowfall. They were also from Bombay. We became friends. They used to invite us for a warm morning breakfast of baked beans and coffee. My mom used to cook delicious khichadi that we shared with them in the evenings.

On the third day, it was important for my father to leave to attend a meeting in Nainital. The road between Manali and Kullu was blocked due to a landslide. So an arrangement was made that we get off our car at this end and walk around the roadblock and get into another vehicle on the other side.

My mom of course bought a Kullu shawl that I still have with me. And we finally reached Nainital. It must have been very cold when we crossed the roadblock and I don’t remember how we managed.

After that I went to Manali several times. While in Delhi for World Congress of Pediatrics I again went there with my husband and daughter in month of October. It being Diwali festival the village was decorated with small lamps. We stayed at famous John Bannon’s hotel. Our old friends with whom we shared our stay earlier in Government bungalow were staying there permanently.

On our previous visit we couldn’t go for a drive to Rhatang pass because of early snowfall. So this time we went there with a bus load of tourists. Many Bengali tourists were there in the bus. And than we saw our famous film producer Satyajit Ray sitting on the front seat.

VISIT – 3

This visit to Himachal pradesh we didn't go to Manali but went to a new area.

Our first stop was Shoja

Shoja is a small village situated in the Seraj Valley, at an elevation of about 2,700 meters. Shoja is known for its tranquil environment and breathtaking views of the Himalayan ranges.

The outings included

1. Jalori Pass: A high mountain pass providing stunning panoramic views.

2. Serolsar Lake: A serene lake located a few kilometers trek from Jalori Pass.

3. Raghupur Fort: An ancient fort with historical significance and scenic views.

Our next stop was Kalpa -

Our next stop was Sangla

Sangla Valley, also known as Baspa Valley, is located in the Kinnaur district, at an elevation of around 2,700 meters. Sangla is famous for its lush green landscapes and apple orchards.

Key attractions include:

Kamru Fort: An ancient fort with a rich history and beautiful architecture.

Bering Nag Temple: A temple dedicated to Lord Jagas, visited during the Fulaich Fair.

Baspa River: Ideal for nature walks, picnics, and angling.

Close to Sangla we crossed the river over a foot bridge and entered a small village where no cars are to be seen. The local people were happily enjoying themselves.

The other interesting activity we enjoyed was a visit to Chitkul 

Chitkul is the last inhabited village near the Indo-Tibetan border, situated in the Kinnur district at an altitude of 3,450 meters. This picturesque village is renowned for its natural beauty and unique charm. It was interesting to see that Chitkul even has a school.

Chhota Kailash (Kinnaur Kailash)

Highlight of Sangla valley is that it has a route to hike to Chhota Kailash.

People who may not have been able to go to Mount Kailash, visit Chota Kailash.

The Kinnaur Kailash range is located in the Kinnaur district, with the peak standing at an elevation of about 6,050 meters. The main attraction is to visit Kinnaur Kailash Shivlig. This interests people with spirituality and also people interested in hiking.

Kinnaur Kailash Shivling: A 79-foot vertical rock formation resembling a Shiva Lingam, considered sacred.

People interested in Trekking: the route leads to Charang La Pass, providing adventure and stunning views.

VISIT – 4

On this visit we five ladies were travelling again to Himachal Pradesh. This time we stayed at a "Home Stay '. The owner's house was right across the road . He had a big farm where he grew Apples. This was the end of season and whole family was busy with packaging the apples and forwarding to send to varios places around India.

We visited the Hidimba Devi temple. It is a very old wooden temple built in 16th century. Hidimba Devi Temple, locally known as Dhungari Temple, also known variously as the Hadimba Temple, is a Hindu Temple, located in Manāli, a hill station in the State of Himāchal Pradesh in north India. It is an ancient cave temple dedicated to Hidimbi Devi, wife of Bhima, a figure in the Indian epic Mahābhārata. I was very impressed by the design of this temple. The doors are intricately carved. The 3 storey tower above the temple consists of three square roofs covered with timber tiles and a fourth brass cone-shaped roof at the top. It

has a unique Pagoda style design. The place was crowded and many tourists were having there photos take in local costume style.

From here we also visited the Naggar Castle which has a magnificent historical structure made of stone and wood built in 1460 AD.

Another interesting place to visit in Naggar is  a gallery that houses the paintings of the Russian artist Nicholas Roerich. Nicholas Roerich is a Russian artist arrived in the Himalayas after the revolution of 1917, where he died in the year 1947. He married to Helena Roerich and famous Indian actor Devika Rani is his daughter in law.

The Nicholas Roerich art gallery was founded in 1962 by Svyetoslav Roerich, son of Nicholas Roerich. The building that now houses the gallery once served as the residence of Nicholas Roerich. Himachal Pradesh Government and Russian Government have formed a trust to run this art gallery as the Roerich Heritage Museum.

Paintings of Kullu, Spiti and Lahaul made by the painter have been housed in the ground floor of the gallery. A great number of his works are preserved in museums all over the world. Most of the paintings show the beauty of ice covered valleys and peaks during early hours of evening.

The artist's private rooms have been preserved in the upper floor of the museum. There are also a few photos of Nicholas on display here, such as the one in which he is posing in his front Lawn with Jawaharlal Nehru.

Tirthan Valley.

Our next stop was Tirthan Valley. After along drive we reached the accomodation we had booked. Whe we stopped there we realised there was steep slope to reach to our place. As it was late evening we decided to stay here for 1 night. Accomodation was good - there were 4/5 cottages. It was by the river side.

Our drivers were going for dinner in the village - we instructed them to find a place at ground level suitable for seniors. So next day we transferred to new place.

The name was ' USHA COTTAGE '.